Culinary arts, classic theatre and a night's stay in a 16th century convent.
Our 24 hour visit to this enchanting town in the heart of Castilla La Mancha was very much a last minute addition to our planned itinerary. Thanks to an incredibly generous invitation from Irene Pardo, director of the Almagro International Festival of Classic Theatre, we decided to add a brief stopover between Madrid and Sevilla. And what a day we had!
Thanks to Irene we were invited to the Almagro Centre of Gastronomic Studies for a masterclass in both local wines (Castilla La Mancha produces more wine than any other region in Spain) and it's world famous Manchego cheeses.
After a wonderful lunch we checked in at the Parador de Almagro, which is housed in the Santa Catalina Convent, built in 1596. Since 1979 this former convent has been one of Spain's national Paradores, a network of state-run, boutique hotels housed in historic buildings. Without doubt the most impressive accommodation we stayed in during our entire two weeks. It felt like staying a night in the most fabulous museum, but with all of the comforts of a 5 star hotel.
That afternoon we headed to the town's main square and into the Corral de Comedias, Spain's best preserved 17th century theatre. Theatre director, Celestino, gave us a lively introduction to the history of the theatre and a sense of what 17th century Spanish theatre would have felt like. Not only that, but we were also treated to a behind the scenes orchestral rehearsal for that evening's production of Don Quijote - the orchestra played "Attack on the Windmills" and we were allowed onto the stage for a group photos with some of the actors.
Dinner in the evening was in the Parador's exquisite interior patio - one of the most impressive dining spaces I have ever had the good fortune to eat in. The food was well executed, classic Castillian fare and after the obligatory vermut to start we drank some sublime, aged Albarinos and local, full bodied reds from the volcanic soils of the Campo de Calatrava D.O.
Almagro is definitely well off the beaten tourist track. Even Emilio, our restaurant manager, native son of Sevilla, had not visited before. I would highly recommend a day or two to see the town's incredibly well preserved architecture, enjoy the exceptional quality of local food and wines and, if you happen to be visiting in July, definitely check out the International Festival of Classic Theatre